Nairobi
A safari gateway that is colder than anyone expects
Nairobi is East Africa's main hub, which means most South African visitors pass through it rather than stop. That is a mild waste — it is the only major city with a national park on its doorstep. It also sits at around 1,800 metres, so the equatorial city people brace themselves for is in practice mild, and often genuinely cold at night.
June to October for the Masai Mara migration; January to February for warm, dry weather without the safari premium
The year, season by season
Migration season
July to OctoberThe Great Migration reaches the Masai Mara and the country's entire tourism economy prices around it. Dry, good game viewing, and the busiest and most expensive window by a wide margin. The best camps book a year out.
Short dry season
January to FebruaryWarm, dry and considerably cheaper than the migration months. Game viewing is still good, just without the spectacle. The best value-to-conditions ratio of the year.
Long rains
April to MayThe cheapest period by some distance. Heavy rain, some camps close, and park roads deteriorate. Green and empty if you do not mind the conditions.
Short rains
November to DecemberLighter and more intermittent than the long rains, often just an afternoon shower. Prices soften before climbing again over the festive period.
Where to base yourself
Getting around
Nairobi traffic is severe and distances take far longer than a map suggests — allow well over an hour for cross-city trips at peak. E-hailing is widely used and inexpensive. Most safari itineraries connect onward by light aircraft from Wilson Airport, which is a different airport from the international one, so an internal transfer is usually part of the plan.
Compare car hire →Worth knowing
- 01Pack a jacket. At 1,800 metres, evenings drop to around 10°C in the cooler months, which catches out visitors expecting equatorial heat.
- 02If you are connecting to a safari, check whether your onward flight leaves from Wilson Airport rather than Jomo Kenyatta — they are separate and the transfer takes time in traffic.
- 03Nairobi National Park is the only national park bordering a capital city. If you have a spare half day on a layover, it is a genuinely worthwhile use of it.
- 04The migration is a river crossing timed by rainfall, not a calendar event. It moves year to year, so treat July to October as a window rather than a guarantee.
Getting to Nairobi
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Search flights to NairobiPlanning the flight? Read the Johannesburg to Nairobi route guide for when to book.
Common questions
When is the Great Migration in the Masai Mara?
Broadly July to October, though the timing shifts each year with the rains. It is a window, not a fixed date, so build flexibility into any trip planned around it.
Is Nairobi worth stopping in, or just connecting through?
Worth a day if you have one. Nairobi National Park sits on the city's edge and is the only park of its kind bordering a capital, and the elephant and giraffe sanctuaries are close by.
Is Nairobi hot?
Less than most people expect. It sits at roughly 1,800 metres, so days are mild and evenings can be cold, particularly between June and August.